Like the recessed plug, simply mounting the Neutriks would not provide any sound, so I needed to wire them. Since I was using George L’s for the pedals, I decided to use the same to attach to the Neutriks. Once again, I got assistance on this. Basically, the cable needed to be stripped back and soldered onto the post of the Neutrik. I left A LOT of available cable for each, because I wasn’t sure where the ins and outs would be in the final layout of the pedals. Once the connections were soldered, we taped over them several times with black electrical tape.
If you are going to go with the on-board power and jacks, you should definitely buy them BEFORE you actually start constructing your board. You will need to measure them for mounting on the board itself. Likewise, if you are using a power strip on or under your board, you should have that as well. Anything and everything that is going on the board should be available BEFORE you start building the board. If you have some pedals on the way (like I did), just make sure you have enough surface space to mount them.
I knew that I would also need a road case to carry the board in, so I took all of my dimensions from my sketch, and searched ebay until I found one that would fit it. I think the case was like $80 – it definitely wasn’t ATA or anything, but it would be good enough. When buying a case, make sure you allow for any pedals that might add some height to your final product. I ALMOST had a problem with this, but fortunately, the case was thin (yet sturdy), and had a little give to it. There is a slight bulge when I have the board in the case, but I’m able to get the lid on securely.
Some other materials I bought were some tweed material, a vintage chrome logo from a car, and a few chrome mudflap girls! More on this next time 
- Tags: Effects, Guitar, Pedalboard, Pedals
